Technical Guides

Why Do Bales Tie Badly?

Tying problems on a baler are among the longest-running discussions on farming forums, and they rarely have a single cause. A misshapen bale, a loose bale, a missed knot and broken twine are symptoms of different faults. This guide starts from the symptom and works back to the group, and from there to the spring.

2026-08-085 min readMetiş Yay

Why Do Bales Tie Badly?

Name the problem correctly first

In the field everything gets called "it is not tying", but there are four distinct situations and each sends you to a different place: the bale comes out loose, the bale comes out misshapen, the knot is never made, or the twine breaks.

Separating them saves half the time. Below, each is traced to the group and the spring responsible.

Loose bales — the pad pressure group

Bale density is set by the pad pressure group that presses the chamber side walls inward. When a spring in this group fatigues, chamber resistance falls, the crop is tied before it is properly compressed and the bale comes out loose.

If tightening the adjustment lever does not restore density, the problem is not the setting but the spring: having lost free length, the lever can no longer generate enough force.

Misshapen bales — feeding and fork group

The commonest cause of a misshapen bale is crop not being fed evenly into the chamber. If the feeder fork mechanism under-feeds one side, the bale stays short there and comes out lopsided.

Two springs work in this group: the one driving the fork and the one holding the adjustment lever in position. When the second fatigues, the setting drifts under vibration — if the machine ties well in the morning and badly in the afternoon, this is the first suspect.

No knot — the knotter group

The knotter makes a full stroke on every bale and is the most finely adjusted part of the machine. A loss of spring force here means the twine is not gripped and the knot is not tied.

When the pressure spring that grips the twine in the knotter group fatigues, the twine is not caught at the moment it should be. The symptom is clear: no knot is made, or the knot that is made comes undone at once.

Adjustment values in this group vary from machine to machine; follow the figures in your own manual. If you suspect the spring, check free length and permanent set first — an adjustment made with a fatigued spring will not hold.

Twine breaking — tension and safety

Broken twine is not always the twine. A sudden rise in load at the moment of tying can also come from a spring not doing its job: if the bale is over-compressed or the knotter movement is delayed, the twine sees more than it can carry.

That is exactly why the safety group exists. The shear key spring and the safety pad spring let the mechanism protect itself under excess load; when they fatigue, the safety either trips far too early or not at all.

Symptom to spring — quick table

Setting, or spring?

There is a practical test for the distinction: a problem that adjustment fixes is a setting problem; a problem that returns shortly after adjustment is a spring problem. A fatigued spring cannot hold a setting — you tighten the lever and a few hours later it is back where it was.

Adjustment values in the tying group vary by make and model; use your own manual. The criteria for springs are the same on every machine: if free length has shortened, if the body has taken a permanent set, or if corrosion pitting has formed on the surface, the spring should be replaced.

Frequently asked questions

Bales come out loose and adjustment does not fix it. Why?

The pad pressure springs may have fatigued. Once a spring loses free length the adjustment lever can no longer generate enough force; this is the known cause of a density problem that adjustment will not fix.

The machine ties well in the morning and badly in the afternoon. Why?

The spring holding the adjustment lever in position may have lost force. A fatigued spring cannot hold a setting, and the adjustment drifts under vibration.

Which spring should I check if no knot is made?

The knotter pressure spring that grips the twine and the cam latch spring are the first places to look. Because an adjustment made with a fatigued spring will not hold, check the spring first.

Do you produce these springs to original dimensions?

Yes. The springs of the baler tying and feeding groups are separate items in our catalogue: feeder fork spring, fork adjustment lever spring, conical knotter spring, pad pressure springs, shear key spring and ratchet pressure spring.

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